The Complete Guide to Traditional Indian Jewelry

The Importance of Jewelry in Indian Culture

Wearing jewelry is not just about making a fashion statement in Indian culture. It is deeply connected with their spiritual and cultural beliefs. Some pieces of jewelry are indispensable when it comes to ceremonies and rituals and Indian weddings are a good example of this.

The union between bride and groom signifies the union of two families. Jewelry is an essential part of the ceremony as different pieces of jewelry have their own significance in Hindu culture. A bride’s ensemble won’t be complete without a collection of jewelry that includes a headpiece, earrings, a nose ring, a necklace, a waistbelt, an armlet or armband, rings, a hand harness, bangles, anklets, and toe rings.

These essential pieces of jewelry complete the look the of the bride and enhances her natural beauty on this most special occasion. They signify different intentions to help the bride and groom enjoy the new chapter of their lives. To add to that, jewelry brings in more blessings to the couple as they begin their lives together.

Indian weddings are lavishly decorated and are considered to be one of the most beautiful ceremonies in the world. The lively nature of Hindu weddings along with the playful colors, elegant accessories, and grand celebrations make them one of the most awaited and cherished events in any community.

Weddings aren’t the only events where jewelry takes center stage. Some communities also consider jewelry as an integral part of their religion. Kadas, karas, or kangans are worn by Sikh men as a sign of their reverence for their faith. The bangles remind them to perform their duties to the best of their abilities while on earth. Tilaks are a piece of jewelry that is worn on the forehead as a sign of religious faith. It symbolizes the door of the soul and gives the wearer a sense of belongingness—bringing a deep connection to higher beings.

Some types of jewelry are also believed to ward off evil spirits, attract good fortune, and promote good health. These can be made of various precious metals with ornate designs. Certain gemstones also have significant meanings, with some pertaining to caste. Some gemstones like the Navratna are also believed to hold mystical powers and are tied to astrology and mythology.

Why 22k Gold is Important in Indian Culture

22k gold is one of the most sought-after metals in the world. In India, it holds a special place in their cultural and spiritual beliefs. Gold is said to purify anything it touches and is seen as a status symbol. It also symbolizes good health, success, and prosperity—making it an essential part of ceremonies and rituals all over the country.

Since 22k gold is considered as one of the purest forms of metal—91.67% in purity— it is one of the most precious metals that can be used in making jewelry. This makes the gold harder, more durable, and less prone to tarnishing.

Traditionally, Indian jewelry is made of gold while more modern approaches to jewelry making saw the use of natural diamonds and other precious or semi-precious materials. Gold stays on top as it is considered a symbol of wealth and prosperity in the Eastern world and signified a family’s wealth and status. Jewelry on the other hand enhances and accentuates what is already beautiful, making the combination of the two a powerful symbol and personal statement of the wearer.

While the concept of marriage has evolved over time, the tradition of exchanging precious metals and stones to signify the union of two people is as old as the ancient Sanskrit scriptures. In fact, it is said that the “Rig Veda”—the oldest scripture in history—refers to gold as a symbol of prosperity and success. This sentiment carried on throughout Indian culture, where gold jewelry was traditionally worn by women on special occasions such as a wedding or the birth of a child.

In wedding ceremonies, both the bride and groom can be seen wearing their traditional attires made even more beautiful by jewelry made of various precious metals and stones. In addition, as the bride is welcomed into the groom’s extended family, the quality and weight of the gold jewelry bestowed upon her go hand-in-hand with the purification ritual.

It is also common practice among Hindus to pass on family heirlooms in the form of gold jewelry. Families consider these pieces a family treasure and they make sure that the next generations inherit these precious items as time goes on to keep the family legacy alive. Of course, accrual of additional gold pieces is always welcome and encouraged as they add more value to the family’s wealth. It is also considered a good omen, attracting wealth and prosperity in the years to come.

Gold is also considered an investment in Indian culture. Being a precious metal, it can be traded and sold whenever the need arises.

Popular Gemstones Used in Indian Jewelry

While gold remains to be the staple in Indian jewelry, Indians also have a soft spot for beautiful gemstones. These precious stones can accentuate any piece of jewelry and elevate their looks with an exotic flair.

Some of the most popular gemstones used in Indian jewelry include diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and pearls. However, modern jewelry manufacturers have recognized the rise of popularity of other gemstones like onyx, jade, amethyst, aquamarine, topaz, and garnet.

Aside from enhancing the overall appearance and appeal of jewelry, gemstones also have symbolical meanings in Hindu belief. Certain stones are believed to have magical or mystical properties that are able to purify, attract bounty, and ward off evil spirits.

Diamonds are considered to be one of the most valuable stones in the world. It is worn to celebrate Venus, a symbol of femininity and beauty. Diamonds are believed to bring the wearer fortune, power, and are connected to wedded bliss.

The ruby is probably one of the most well-worn gemstones in all of India. It is the gemstone of the sun and is worn to appease the sun god and bring in positive energy. The red gemstone can be commonly found on rings, however, communities like the chettairs use the ruby as a centerpiece in the thali (wedding chain) to solemnize marriages.

Emeralds are said to be of great value to the Hindus due to their ability to increase concentration, mental alertness, and intellectual power. The beautiful stone with varying shades of green is worn by people of different ages.

Pearls are a popular choice among people in India due to their relatively affordable price and classic appeal. They are commonly found in Indian bridal jewelry like jhumkas as dangling accent pieces. Pearls are linked to emotional stability and creativity.

Navaratna or Nine Gems

While we are on the topic of gemstones, it is important to recognize another cultural belief that is rooted in Indian astrology. Ancient astrologers believed that wearing gemstones of different colors and properties may help alter one’s fate and bring health benefits to the wearer. These gemstones are called the Navaratna or “nine gems” as they represent the nine planets of our solar system.

Astrologers of old also believed that the gemstones should be worn in a specific order to prevent bad luck from coming to the wearer. The ruby is supposed to always be at the center of the jewelry as it symbolizes the sun—the center of our solar system. The gemstones are also supposed to be flawless with no distinguishable cracks, fissures, or rough edges. The gemstones should also be placed in a clockwise direction in this order: diamond, pearl, coral, hessonite, blue sapphire, cat’s eye, yellow sapphire, and emerald.

Here are the nine gems or the Navaratna and their corresponding symbols:

1. Ruby - signifies the Sun
2. Pearl - signifies the Moon
3. Emerald - signifies Mercury
4. Red Coral - signifies Mars
5. Yellow sapphire - signifies Jupiter
6. Diamond - signifies Venus
7. Blue sapphire - signifies Saturn
8. Hessonite - signifies Rahu, the ascending lunar position
9. Cat’s Eye - signifies Ketu, the descending lunar position

Some Navaratna jewelry includes rings, necklaces, pendants, and earrings. Both men and women can wear Navaratna jewelry. The believed effects can vary from person to person but they can prove to be detrimental to the wearer if worn the wrong way.

Symbols Used in Indian Jewelry

India’s rich culture is abundant in icons and symbols. The same can be said about their jewelry. In the old days, prominent people like royalty and people in power wear jewelry as a means to identify themselves and their beliefs. This practice trickled down to ordinary citizens and has made its way to rituals and ceremonies.

Aside from being a status symbol and fashion statement, traditional Indian jewelry is also worn as a supplement to religion and spirituality. It is not uncommon for sacred temples to be adorned with intricate pieces of jewelry. In fact, jewelry donations are a common practice in India, and the estimated amount of jewelry offered to the gods and goddesses rack up to tons yearly.

We’ve talked about gemstones as an integral part of traditional Indian jewelry. Now, let’s take a look at other symbols that also give traditional jewelry their exotic and cultural appeal. Images of gods and animals can be often found on jewelry as they symbolize different things and appease deities. The elephant is one of India’s most revered animals. It is also a symbol for Lord Ganesh, the remover of obstacles and the god of beginnings. Jewelry featuring an elephant design is said to bring luck to new beginnings, making it an auspicious gift for newlyweds who are just entering a new chapter in their lives. Elephants are symbols of strength, good fortune, health, and happiness.

Peacocks are also common in Indian jewelry. Their majestic appearance and beautiful colors make for very attractive pieces of jewelry. Surely, any bride would be thrilled to wear precious items with such beautiful features. On the symbolic side, peacocks represent beauty, grace, and pride. These are fitting characteristics of the national bird of India. Peacocks are portrayed as the vehicles for many deities in Hindu mythology. The goddess of wealth and prosperity, Lakshmi, is mostly associated with the peacock. With a history as vibrant as their feathers, parrots can be usually seen in traditional Indian jewelry. These winged messengers, storytellers, and teachers are celebrated in Indian texts and myths. Parrots are associated with Lord Kama, the god of love. They can also be found in temple art and symbolize fertility and desire.

The fish is another animal that can be seen on Indian jewelry. It has been noted in texts that the fish was the form that Lord Vishnu took to guide Manu who is believed to be the creator of humans. Lord Vishnu guided Manu’s boat through a great deluge with his fish form. Manu is then said to begin life anew to propagate humankind. The fish is a symbol of rebirth in Hindu belief. It also represents fertility and abundance in many religions in South Asia.

Solah Shringar: The 16 Bridal Adornments

Every bride imagines herself on her wedding day. She dreams of a perfect dress, a beautiful veil, and the perfect hairstyle. But Indian brides take their wedding preparation to the next level, choosing their 16 adornments with purpose and meaning. Indian weddings are celebrations of love and unity and the bride’s jewelry represent the union of man and woman in marriage.

The tradition of wearing 16 adornments or the Solah Shringar, is deeply embedded in Indian culture. The ceremony is performed for every bride, and it is a part of the bridal preparation. It is meticulous and is meant to bring out the natural beauty of the bride as she prepares to enter married life.

Shringar is derived from a Sanskrit word meaning “to make beautiful” or “divine beauty”. This makes sense since the 16 adornments are symbolic representations of the divine—the goddess Lakshmi, in particular.

1. Sindoor

   A symbol of the union of marriage. The groom applies a bright red powder on his bride's forehead at the center of the parting of her hair.

2. Keshapasharachana

   The bride usually ties her hair in a traditional braid or puts it up in a bun. The keshapasharachana is a hair ornament that is attached to the bride's hair. Other adornments include flowers and gold ornaments are added to add beauty to the arrangement.

3. Bindi

   The bindi is a symbol of married life and is deeply rooted in Hinduism. It is placed between the bride's eyebrows and is traditionally applied using vermillion powder. Modern interpretations of the bindi involve the use of stickers or gem-encrusted bindis.

4. Maang Tikka or Mangtikka

   The maang tikka is an important part of the bride's jewelry collection. It is a hair accessory that is placed on her forehead and is usually made of gold and precious gems. The maang tikka is a headpiece that adds a charming effect that enhances the face of the bride.

5. Anjana or Kajal

   The bride's eyes are made even more beautiful with the application of anjana or kajal. It is applied on the edges of the eyelids.

6. Nath or nose ring

   Brides wear a nath or nose ring on the left side of her nose. It is another symbol of married life in Hindu culture and can be as simple as a stud or nose pin. Another version is more detailed with ornate stone settings and a chain that drapes along the cheek.

7. Mangalsutra

   A souvenir necklace from the groom that is given to the bride. The mangalsutra is called the "holy thread" that binds the two in marriage. It is usually made of gold, black beads, and precious stones. The haar or necklace is a symbol of prosperity.

8. Karn Phool

   Karn phool means 'ear flower' or earrings. Adorning one's ear with rings is considered auspicious in Hindu belief. Jhumkas fall under this category.

9. Bajuband

   An armlet that is traditionally worn on the upper arm that is said to protect its wearer from evil spirits. The bajuband is typically made of silver and gold and can be embellished with gemstones.

10. Choodiyan or Bangles

    In Indian weddings, the bride is expected to wear both gold and glass bangles which signify long life and success for her groom. Shaking the bangles after marriage for good health, luck, and prosperity is part of wedding tradition.

11. Mehendi Also known as henna, mehendi is considered to be one of the most important parts of Hindu culture. It is used in other events aside from weddings like festivals and ceremonies. Intricate patterns are drawn on the hands and feet of the bride. The dark red or maroon color of the henna is believed to bring in good luck and stands as a symbol of love between the married couple.
12. Kamarbandh

    An ornate waistband that enhances the natural silhouette of the bride's body. It also serves a practical purpose as it helps keep the sari in place. Different gemstones and designs can be found on more ornate kamarbandh versions.

13. Payal and bichus

    The payal or anklet typically has small bells that make a sound as the bride walks. The bichus or toe rings are worn on the second toe signify married life.

14. Itar

    Also means scent. The bride rubs perfume on herself to keep her smelling fragrant throughout the wedding ceremony and rituals.

15. Aarsi or hathphool

    The aarsi or finger thumbs and hathphool or hand harnesses are is unique pieces of Indian jewelry that draw attention to the bride's hands and enhance their natural beauty.

16. Shaadi ka Joda or Bridal Dress

    One of the most crucial elements of the Solah Shringar. Indian bridal dresses come in auspicious colors like red, green, gold, or maroon.

Types of Traditional Indian Jewelry

• Headpieces

• Earrings

• Face

• Necklaces

• Waist

• Arms and Hands

• Feet

Do’s and Don’ts of Wearing Traditional Indian Jewelry

While traditional Indian jewelry is beautiful and elegant, there are certain rules that should be followed when it comes to wearing them. As they are important, sometimes even sacred to Hindu culture and beliefs, one must be mindful and knowledgeable about what is appropriate and what is not.

A general rule in wearing Indian jewelry is that gold pieces should only be worn from the waist up. This means that any other jewelry that is worn on the ankles and toes should be made of another material. Silver and other metal alloys are okay for jewelry meant to be worn on the feet.

Gold holds significant value—not only monetary but also cultural, religious, and spiritual—in Hinduism. That is why you’d only see traditional payals and bichuls are typically made of silver and other semi-precious metals. Gold is reserved for pieces like tikka jewelry, jhumkas, mangalsutras, haars, kamarbandhs, and bajubands with respect to Hindu beliefs.

Another general rule to be followed is the use of silver and other materials for jewelry meant to be worn from the waist down. This includes anklets and toe rings as they are more appropriate in accordance with traditions.

As stated above, there are a few rings to be followed when it comes to wearing Navaratna jewelry. Men wear Navaratna rings on the right finger while women wear them on the left. The blue sapphire should also be pointed towards the body of the wearer, hence its placement on the bottom of the arrangement.

The nine gems should also follow this order (clockwise): diamond, pearl, coral, hessonite, blue sapphire, cat’s eye, yellow sapphire, and emerald. Navaratna jewels are also supposed to be free from imperfections like cracks, fissures, or rough edges.

Another thing to take into consideration when deciding to wear traditional Indian jewelry is the setting. While it can be flattering to some, wearing traditional Indian jewelry if you’re not of Indian descent may appear to be off-putting for others. Some would even call it cultural appropriation. It would be best to stay safe and learn more about Hindu culture before deciding to wear anything that may draw ire from Indian nationals.